
Van Conversion Guide
Base Build
Insulation
Insulation is one of the most debated topics in van conversions — and for good reason. It plays two key roles:
Thermal Barrier – keeping you warmer in winter and cooler in summer.
Condensation Control – stopping moisture from forming behind your walls, which can quietly damage your van over time.
There are plenty of strong opinions online, but the truth is: three main insulation options all get the job done thermally. The real differences are in cost, ease of install, and sustainability. This guide breaks down what you actually need to know.
Acoustic Insulation (Sound Deadening)
Additional Tools:
Drill + Drill bits
Impact driver + timber screws
or
Nailgun/Hammer (If using nails)
Jigsaw
Jigsaw blades
Before thermal insulation, it’s worth doing some soundproofing. This small step makes a big difference in comfort.
Benefits:
Reduces rattles and road noise
Makes the van feel more “homely”
Improves sleep quality
How to Install:
Use butyl-based mats (Linked here)
Apply directly to large flat panels (walls, ceiling, sliding door, wheel arches)
Press down firmly so there are no air gaps and a solid connection has been made
Hot Tip: Covering more than 50% of each panel gives minimal extra benefit. Save your budget for other parts of the build by applying just 50% coverage of sheet metal.
Hot Tip: Sound deadening is particularly important on the ceiling to dull the thud of raindrops on your roof while you’re trying to sleep at night.
Thermal Insulation
Good thermal insulation helps regulate temperature and prevents condensation. Let’s look at the main materials DIY builders use:
Thermal Insulation Options
Material | Positives | Negatives | Cost | Best Used For |
---|---|---|---|---|
Flexible Closed-Cell Foam
Easiest Install
View Foam Rolls |
Lightweight, moisture-resistant, peel-and-stick, great at stopping airflow to cold metal. | Most expensive; thinner (10 mm typical) so less R-value per layer vs thick boards. | High | Small vans; curved/irregular shapes; walls & ceilings. |
XPS Foam (Extruded Polystyrene)
Best Value
Shop XPS Boards |
Cheap, excellent thermal performance (high R per thickness), easy to source in 25–50 mm boards. | Rigid boards are fiddly around curves; takes more time to fit & seal perfectly. | Medium | Larger vans; flat panels & floors; areas where thickness is available. |
Natural Sheep’s Wool
Eco Choice
Buy Wool Insulation |
Sustainable, breathable; can absorb & release moisture (“breathes” with the van); easy to work with. | Slightly less thermally efficient; must be installed thoughtfully to avoid damp spots. | Fair | Eco builds; walls & ceilings in any van. |
All three materials are thermally effective. Choosing comes down to:
Do you want the easiest install? → Closed-cell foam.
Do you want the cheapest high-performance option? → XPS.
Do you want the eco-friendly, natural choice? → Sheep’s wool.
Installation Tips
Cut insulation to fit tightly — avoid gaps.
Cover every exposed patch of metal (these are condensation points).
Use adhesive suitable for your chosen material.
Seal joins with cloth/foil tape to stop airflow.
Pay attention to tricky areas: wheel arches, ribs, doors, and roof.
Insulate the floor too (XPS or foam boards under subfloor).
Recommended Products
Closed-cell foam rolls (eg. Car Builders or similar)
XPS insulation boards
100% natural sheep’s wool insulation
Cloth tape
Butyl-based sound deadening mats
FAQ
-
Not always. In small vans with good ventilation and breathable insulation (like wool), a full vapor barrier may trap moisture behind the walls rather than help. Focus instead on sealing insulation properly and allowing airflow behind cladding where possible.
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Yes, especially in colder climates. XPS or closed-cell foam boards work well here—just make sure they’re compressed evenly under your subfloor.
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Use what fits your build. Around 10–25mm for walls/ceiling is common in small vans. You don’t need to max it out—tight, sealed coverage is more important.
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These materials have their place, but they’re often overhyped. Alone, they don’t insulate much. Paired with proper materials (like foam or wool), they can reflect radiant heat—but don’t rely on them as your primary insulation.
Use wood glue in the joins
Adding a bead of wood glue to each tongue-and-groove joint helps seal out moisture — ideal for areas above cooktops or beds.
Cut for lights as you go
It’s much easier to cut clean openings for lights or fans during installation than trying to drill through the ceiling later.
Match the ceiling curve
Measure at both ends of each board to accommodate any curve in the ceiling — this gives you tight, professional-looking edges.
Treat both sides of every board
Sealing the back side of your timber helps prevent warping and improves moisture protection — don’t skip it!